• Install the floor last during renovations.
• Heat the residence at least one week before installation.
• Keep the subfloor dry and the basement well ventilated.
• Store the sealed wooden boxes in the room where the floor will be installed at least 24 hours before installation.
• Maintain the relative humidity at ± 45% [between 40 and 60%].
• To measure the humidity level, use a hygrometer which will tell you if the air is too humid or not humid enough. You will then be able to determine whether special measures are necessary and, if so, what measures must be taken.
• Let the concrete subfloor dry for a minimum of 30 days, but preferably between 45 and 90 days.

1- Check the moisture of the subfloor

Using a moisture tester for wood, make sure the moisture content of the subfloor does not exceed 12% and does not differ more than 4% from the flooring that will be installed. If the moisture content is too high, find the source of the moisture and correct it.

2- Check that the subfloor is in good condition

The subfloor must be composed of plywood boards at least 5/8 in. [16 mm] thick, or “OSB”-approved particle board 3/4 in. [19 mm] thick if the structure includes bridged floor joists at 16 in. [400 mm] intervals. Screw the subfloor firmly into the joists to prevent movement and cracking. Replace the existing flooring or subfloor that may have been damaged by water or have structural weaknesses. The surface must be flat. The maximum tolerance is 3/16 in. [5 mm] of deviation over 10 ft. [3 m]. If necessary, sand the rises with 20-grit sandpaper.

3- Clean the subfloor

The subfloor must be well swept, smooth, and free of debris, staples, apparent nails, old adhesive material, or other dried products.

1- Make a sketch of the installation

Determine where the wall is, or the starting point, and the direction in which the floorboards will be installed. Installing floors perpendicular to or at 45° to the joists is recommended.

2- Spread the felt paper

Spread the felt paper [or equivalent] over the entire surface.

3- Open a few boxes and arrange the floorboards as they will be installed

For the best possible appearance, spread the floorboards across the whole room in the way they will be installed to ensure a mixture of colours and shades. Remove or move the unwanted floorboards. Select those that align best with the transition mouldings that will be installed.

4- Draw a line to align the first row

Using the cord, draw a guideline parallel to the starting wall, chosen considering the width of the floorboards and adding 3/4 in. [19 mm]. This space corresponds to the space reserved for the expansion joints and the tab. Select the longest and straightest boards for the first row.

1- Place, drill, and hammer in the first row

Install the first floorboard at 1/4 in. [6 mm] from the perpendicular wall at your right. The tab side should be placed along the starting line, and the groove side should face the starting wall. Drill and hammer the floorboard on top, as close to the wall as possible. Install the following boards towards the left until you must cut the last board to finish the row.

2- Use the cut floorboards to start the next row

The floorboard used to finish the first row should be long enough to start the second row with the remaining end. Leave 1/4 in. [6 mm] of space between the wall and the end of the last floorboard of each row. Start the second row with the remaining end, which should be at least 6 in. [150 mm] longer or shorter than the floorboard used in the first row. This will prevent the joints from mis-aligning.

3- Nail the first rows by hand

The first rows of floorboards should be nailed by hand with a hammer, a nail punch, and finishing nails, as the wall will prevent the easy use of a nail gun. Nails should be set along with the tab, approximately 4 in. [100 mm] from one another.

4- Use the nail gun as soon as possible

Subsequent rows will be installed the same way, but with the nail gun.

5- Nail the last rows by hand

The last four or five rows must be installed the same way as the first rows because of their proximity to the wall. You may need to cut the floorboards against the wall to leave the 1/2 in. [12 mm] necessary for the expansion joints.

6- Enjoy your floor for a long time!

Ground floor